Maltese couturier Luke Azzopardi made his Japan debut this year, taking his collection inspired by the Għonnella – the iconic Maltese folk garment – to the global stage with his live fashion project The Black Garment at Expo 2025 Osaka. Commissioned by Arts Council Malta, and supported by Malta Enterprise, the Malta Pavilion, the Malta Crafts Foundation and Heritage Malta, the project is a striking blend of art history, costume research, and artisanal craftsmanship.

At the Malta Pavilion, visitors were treated to contemporary reconstructions and reinterpretations of the Għonnella, accompanied by an immersive video and sound installation that explored Malta’s cultural heritage in fresh, couture form. A limited-run catalogue accompanied the exhibition, documenting the historical research, creative journey, and the merging of traditional motifs with cutting-edge design techniques.

Azzopardi is no stranger to scholarly fashion. Born in 1992 in Victoria, Gozo, he studied at Central Saint Martins (UAL) and the University of Malta. His studio is known for its costume history research and aesthetic deconstruction, treating fashion not merely as clothing but as cultural object and narrative. He published Għonnella: Deconstructing the Garment in 2022, a book that deepened the study of Malta’s national costume.

As part of The Black Garment, the modern interpretations were staged in a live fashion installation, with models from Wildflower1998 Osaka. The show’s creative team included Tamara Burr (project management), Sam Chetcuti (video installation), Maria Theuma (words), and Anthony Bonnici (voiceover). Photography by Ondřej Pirý captured the spectacle. Make-up by Adriana Scicluna added the finishing touches. The entire experience was immersive, curatorial, and reflective, not just decorative – inviting spectators to reflect on Malta’s folklore, ritual, dress, and how those intersect with global fashion today.

Sustainability and the slow couture ethos are also central to Azzopardi’s work. His studio emphasises high quality fabrics, avoids synthetic fibres known for environmental harm, and produces garments that are meant to be heirlooms rather than disposable trends.

With The Black Garment, Azzopardi Studio honours the past – while imagining what tradition can become when exposed to new influences, technology, and global audiences.